The village of Eze
Read all of JOY DODDS’ previous Mediterranean Musings – from Italy to Spain and France, and including gastronomic delights …
Above the coastline of the Cote d’Azur, higher coast roads add another perspective to the panorama.
Having extolled the beauty of the coast from Nice eastwards, an alternative route is also sensational. To travel via the Moyenne (Middle) Corniche route means to experience the sheer beauty of the medieval village of Eze. Its quaint stone houses and cobbled lanes teeming with interesting cafes and craft shops delight the senses, not to mention its location on a sheer rocky outcrop, rather like a pinnacle, dramatically overlooking the Mediterranean. Panoramic bliss!
In fact, the village of Eze has been a natural fortification and refuge since antiquity. Even today the town is entered through a double fortified gate built in the 14th century. The village is a maze of steep narrow streets with masses of alleys and steps, no place for anything but the most sensible walking boots. Every few metres is punctuated by another archway adorned with perhaps a crucifix or ancient coat of arms reflecting its medieval origins and, as ever, looking out over the magnificent coastal vista. Gushing fountains also feature strongly, reflecting the strong Provençal tradition.
Towards the uppermost section of the village is the Chapelle des Penitents Blanc, a beautiful 14th century sanctuary. Inside the ramparts of the ruins of Eze’s ancient fortress are exotic Mediterranean gardens created from 1959 by M. Gastan, comprising succulents from semi-desert areas amid a garden of colour and rocks.
The narrow cobbled streets and alleys are full of artisan shops and, on the outskirts of Eze, is an interesting perfumery, Fragonard. After hours of exploration have been enjoyed, a variety of restaurants beckon, including some top-class names such as Chateau Eza.
Those taking the third road option, the Grande Corniche travel along the upper level road before heading down to overlook the principality of Monaco, arriving at sea level at Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, between Monaco and Menton on the French/Italian border.
Above Monaco is the Trophee des Alpes, a Roman triumphal arch from 6BC on the former imperial road. Most of the Grande Corniche travels through scented groundcover called garrigue, with pines and low cover symbolic of Mediterranean semi-arid country. Along the way is Fort de la Revere, built in 1870 on a rocky outcrop, which today offers yet another great Mediterranean panorama.
The village of Roquebrune is perched on rocks surrounded by giant pine trees and thickets of mimosa. The medieval village centre is accessed by steep steps and staircases, its houses hewn out of rock. Here can be seen France’s oldest feudal keep still in existence, built in the 10th century, comprising four historic and most interesting floors, including a primitive kitchen and prison.
Roquebrune’s C10th castle offers great memorabilia and even better panoramas over the Mediterranean and there are ruins of the Basilica of St-Martin which was destroyed by pirates in 1400. The village also boasts a 1000-year old olive tree! The restaurants of the town are top-notch but of course hellishly expensive. Its steep cobbled streets are atmospheric – but again, wear rubber-soled shoes or risk falling!
The coastal area known as Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is known for its sumptuous villas, a millionaires’ resort and a great favourite of Empress Eugénié. The peninsula of Cap Martin is predominantly masses of scattered rocks as well as stands of giant pines and mimosa thickets.
Menton
Heading further east, the Upper Corniche leads down to the sheltered, warm and friendly resort of Menton with its yacht harbour and stunning mountain backdrop. Compared to the glitz of Monaco, a sojourn in this gentle neighbouring town is perfect – and affordable. Its mild climate allows oranges and lemons to flourish and one of the local festivals held in Lent is the Fete des Citrons.
Menton is another classic coastal Provençal town. Fittingly, Promenade de Soleil runs along the waterfront. The vast baroque church of St Michael with its bell tower is breathtaking inside and out and acts as one of the sites of Menton’s music festival held in August. Rue St Michael leads to Place des Herbes, a beautiful pebbled square lined with plane trees and featuring a central fountain surrounded by ochre and pink houses – oh so Provençal!
Striding up Menton’s steep alleyways can be a trial but the landmarks are well worth it. The Chapelle des Penitents Blancs lies nearby as does the Musée Jean Cocteau in a 17th century building. The Musée du Palais Carnolea is a fine collection of art housed in the summer residence of the princes of Monaco. At the top of the hill, the cemetery on rue Vieux Chateau includes the burial site of rugby football’s inventor, Englishman William Webb Ellis who lived and died in Menton.
What remains to be explored on France’s Cote d’Azur? It’s Monaco with all its glamour and glitz – as well as the history and colour of its medieval piracy from the Monegasque dynasty. Today the tax-free municipality is home to millionaires, sports people including tennis players and the like. Tourists flock there to try their luck in the famed casino or to feast their eyes on the famous Hotel de Paris with its famous Alain Ducasse restaurant, Le Louis XV. And of course, these days in summer, you cannot move for cruise-ships and their inmates – but more next week.
